That’s not to say that they don’t look good. A regular-fit suit today will still look good in 20 years, which is perhaps why it’s the default on Savile Row, where they make suits you could hand down to your children. As designers oscillate between skinny and baggy, regular fit always looks a little fusty – it’s never directional, which means it’s never fashionable. The most classic men’s suit cut, stolid and unyielding to fashion trends. Take a note from Don Draper and stick to a tie and subtle pocket square.ĭress it down: The modern creative’s uniform – swap the shirt for a plain tee, and your smart shoes for white sneakers. If the taper’s quite gentle, you can get away with a bit of fabric on your shoes, but generally, they should just kiss the laces.ĭress it up: Beware of over-accessorising. If you’re slim, go for a pair that narrow through the thigh if you’re more athletic, try a pair that tapers from below the knee. The trousers will taper, but less so than on a skinny fit. The jacket nips in enough at the waist that you can daylight between sleeve and torso when your arms are hanging, but you should also be able to fit your hand between the lapel and your chest when it’s buttoned. On a two-button jacket, the top one should sit just above your navel – shorter guys can go a bit higher, taller guys a bit lower, to balance your proportions. “No pulls across the back or puckering at the front, or the lapels lifting away from the body,” says Loe. They should lie flat against your own, as should the chest fabric. How Slim Suits Should FitĮverything starts from the shoulders. And by the time it does, slim will doubtless have come back into style. It won’t date, and it will also always make you look good – the extra shape it creates makes your legs look longer and your waist seem slimmer, which will be handy as the body beneath inevitably changes. That said, if you’re looking for a fallback suit – the kind of navy two-piece that you’ll break out for weddings, funerals and job interviews – then slim isn’t a bad choice. They’ve also been the default for the last decade, which means that, fashion being the fickle beast it is, they’re now old hat. They elongate your body shape, they offer enough room to move, and they have a classic air that makes them relatively timeless. Slim-fit suits are arguably the least on-trend, but perhaps still the most physically flattering. Sometimes, stretchy fabrics are best left in the gym.ĭress it up: Add a waistcoat, just make sure there’s enough space under the already snug jacket.ĭress it down: Go full rock ‘n’ roll and pair the jacket with an animal-print shirt, skinny jeans and Chelsea boots. If you absolutely must, there’s muscle-fit tailoring, be warned though that wearing that much polyester and viscose will make you a fire hazard. “Fabric needs a bit of ease to drape and provide comfort,” says Loe. Jeans solve this by adding stretch, although this is not generally the best look in more formal fabrics. Skinny suit trousers can be an issue for guys with bigger thighs. The waist will nip in very aggressively and the trousers, especially, will taper from the waistband and end bang on the ankle – if they hit your shoes, get them shortened. The shoulders should sit flush with your own, and you should still be able to button the jacket without the fabric pulling. How Skinny Suits Should FitĪ skinny suit should fit like a second skin, but that doesn’t mean sizing down. But if you insist on a suit as skinny as your jeans, here’s how. “Don’t do it,” says Jonathan Loe, bespoke co-ordinator at London formalwear store Oliver Brown. It’s not something your tailor would ever recommend. Be aware that it’s an unforgiving look, in every sense – skinny suits draw the eye and, unless they’re well cut or have some give in the fabric, can be pretty uncomfortable. But the bulk comes at the more affordable end, where it’s not uncommon to see an experimental all-over pattern or even a green suit. Some designer suits still appear in this guise, especially ones with rock ‘n’ roll overtones: think Saint Laurent, John Varvatos and Celine. It’s a fit with a youthful feel, largely because it’s most flattering on bodies that time hasn’t yet softened. ![]() The fit favoured by every rock band since has hung around, especially on the high street, where summer suits fly out in time for proms and weddings. Legend has it that when Hedi Slimane debuted his groundbreaking skinny tailoring in the early ’00s, the late Karl Lagerfeld dropped six-and-a-half stone so that he could fit into it.
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